The Serpentine is a common obstacle sequence and there are many ways to handle it. I'll present the most common approaches and I've created a short video demonstrating most of them.

There are basically two broad categories of handling:

1. The handler changes sides on each side of the middle obstacle to assist in turning the dog.
2. The handler stays on one side of the obstacles throughout the sequence.

Two Sided Handling

The "Two Sided" handling approaches use (almost) any combination of two crosses to turn the dog on each side of the middle obstacle. In the diagram below I show how you would apply the three different crosses (Front Cross [FrontCross, LearningFrontCross], Rear Cross [RearCross, LearningRearCross], and Blind Cross) to the same Serpentine sequence. With the Rear Cross you can choose whether you turn the dog on the take off or landing side of the jump so that gives you a fourth approach.

My diagram shows using the same cross before and after the middle obstacle. But there is no reason why you can't use one cross before and a different one after (although choosing a Rear Cross followed by a cross requiring you to be ahead of your dog would be more difficult to execute with a fast dog).

Execution

When executed perfectly the dog's path should be as close to a straight line through the three obstacle as possible. That requires good execution of your crosses and most importantly being in the right place at the right time.

You want to perform each cross as close to the plane of the jumps as possible; the further you move away from the plane the longer and wider your dog will jump and turn after each jump. Ideally you want to leave only the width of your dog between you and the jump. Some handlers think they are helping their dogs see the jumps by crossing further away from the plane of the jumps. But I've found the opposite to be true. By staying tighter to the jumps it gives clearer information to the dog that this jump is where we are going next, there is no need to look elsewhere for our next obstacle. This article on the Handler Line [UsingHandlerLine, HandlerLine] discusses Front Cross location in more detail.

As to where along the plane you perform the cross the usual rules apply: you want to cross between half way and two thirds of the distance to the next jump. Lastly, for the Front and Blind Crosses if you dog has to collect or turn around you, you are too slow, get moving!

Single Sided Handling

Handling a Serpentine from one side of the jumps is often the easiest approach for the handler and can provide the fastest performance too. The diagram below shows three approaches where you start in motion and a third from a start with a Lateral Lead Out or Lead Out Push.

Execution

The primary key to all the Single Sided Serpentine approaches is to have done your One Jump work so your dog understands your cues. The cues you use around the second obstacle are exactly as though you were practicing on a single jump; they are just in sequence now.

I'm not too likely to use the Rear Cross handling myself, as I'd prefer to work to get ahead of my dog for one of the other methods. I also think it gives a slightly wider path for the dog following the second obstacle as you cross behind your dog on the landing side.

For the Reverse Flow Pivot or False Turn and Drop Shoulder the handler has to be ahead of their dog and passing the second obstacle to cue the dog's turn to the second obstacle. I believe the RFP approach would fit within Greg Derrett's system.

For the Lead Out Push the normal rules apply: position yourself where you would Front Cross if you were running the course. Then you run the remaining obstacles keeping just ahead of your dog to push your dog over the second obstacle and then pull your dog back to you over the third obstacle.

Some Example Video

I've video taped Serpentines several times over the years and never got around to editing the video or writing this article. So here is some video I shot a couple months ago with Meeker. Like usual, I took the video all in one session, my execution isn't always the best, and I left out a couple of the handling variations. But I've got the major approaches covered so it should help clarify my descriptions.

So give some of these approaches a try in your next practice session so you'll be comfortable the next time you see one in a trial.

In the last year or so I've seen a slightly different method for handling tunnel to dog walk wraps that might of interest for some dog and handler teams. The first diagram in the figure below shows the setup I'm calling a tunnel to dog walk wrap. The dog goes from a tunnel directly up the dog walk with a sharp change of direction. I'll first present two common handling methods and then present what I'm calling the "short cut" handling method and discuss it's pros and cons.

Tunnel to Dog Walk Wrap Handling

Obstacle Legend

The second diagram shows the "classic" handling method. Assuming the dog starts on the handler's right on the entrance to the tunnel, the handler runs some distance of the way along the tunnel and until the dog exits the tunnel. The handler then Post Turns [PostTurn, LearningPostTurn] in toward the dog (aka Counter Rotation) turning the dog sharply back toward the tunnel. The dog is now on the handler's left. The dog has one or more strides on the flat to build speed before ascending the dog walk.

Another method, shown in the third diagram, is what I call the "run away" method. The handler goes to the start of the up plank. As soon as the dog appears at the exit of the tunnel the handler starts running down the dog walk.

The fourth diagram shows an alternate method for handling this same sequence. I haven't heard anyone name this method yet, so I call it the "short cut" method. Once the dog has entered the tunnel the handler positions themselves on the ascending plank almost at the level portion of the dog walk and faces their body toward the exit of the dog walk. When the dog is about to exit the tunnel the handler calls the dog. Once the dog exits and turns toward the handler the handler begins moving down the dog walk. The dog turns tightly coming out of the tunnel directly onto the dog walk and ascends the dog walk.

Of course these methods can also be applied to tunnel to A frame wraps. But the steepness of the A Frame and its shorter length amplify the cons of the short cut handling method.

Pros and Cons of Short Cut Handling

The benefits of short cut handling include:

• The handler starts further ahead of the dog on the dog walk
• The dog can turn more tightly from the tunnel to the dog walk
• The dog's total time for this sequence may be faster

The potential difficulties of this handling include:

• The dog may miss the up contact on the dog walk and incur a fault
• In extreme cases the dog may not ascend the dog walk
• The dog's total time for this sequence may be slower

From the pros and cons you can see that this handling isn't always "the right thing to do". If you look at the final diagram in the figure you'll see the black tunnel and green dog path show one situation where this handling is beneficial. The dog exits the tunnel and turns directly onto the yellow of the up contact; for a sharp and fast turn.

This diagram also shows in red situations where this handling isn't so good. As the tunnel turns out away from the dog walk and/or shortens from the end of the dog walk the dog's natural path moves further from putting them up the dog walk through the yellow. Calling the dog's name (i.e. pulling on the Verbal Leash in these situations may also cause the dog to miss the up ramp as they come toward the handler. Furthermore the handler's position (and motion if the handler starts moving down the dog walk) tend to pull the dog away from a correct dog walk entry. Of course you can train your dog to always seek out a straight approach to the dog walk even in these situations.

The handling is definitely course specific and especially dog specific. You must "Know Thy Dog". From watching students and competitors it appears that small through medium sized dogs are able to perform this wrap so that it helps their dog walk performance. In general larger, heavier dogs, dogs that don't turn tightly, novice dogs, or dogs that have trouble getting up to speed when starting the dog walk on the incline are not well suited for this handling method. As the tunnel moves back and away from the dog walk up ramp this handling becomes more difficult for dogs that don't travel out far from the tunnel exit.

This is a handling strategy where your dog's behavior will tell you more about its applicability than the stop watch. If your dog struggles to get up the dog walk or turns with difficulty it is definitely not the right thing for your dog. So let your dog tell you if this is right for them.

You could time the different handling approaches for the same setup to see if there is a difference. For fun I setup a little course that allowed me to take Meeker through the same tunnel with and without the wrap to the dog walk. That way he wouldn't anticipate when we were going up the dog walk. On this sequence once you get to jump 8 you can start over with jump one repeat indefinitely.

Tunnel to Dog Walk Wrap Handling Test Sequence

Obstacle Legend

I video taped and timed him from the tunnel exit to the end of the dog walk for a number of handling approaches. Meeker was one half second faster with the "short cut" handling than the "classic" handling. In the video I also moved the tunnel away and back from the dog walk up ramp so you could see how that affected his performance using these handling methods.

Originally I wasn't that keen about the short cut handling approach. But after watching a couple dozen dogs in classes I will recommend it for those dog/handler teams for which it is not a problem for the dog. See how you and your dog feel about this handling and let me know your opinion.

Clean Run Magazine has a good article by Mary Ellen Barry in the September 2007 issue describing her application of Greg Derrett's handling system to the Threadle. What I like about this article is that Mary Ellen doesn't just say "I handle the threadle this way"; she explains why her handling system makes this a way she should handle them in order to give her dogs consistent cues.

For those who don't have a Clean Run subscription (why not?) her method for handling the Threadle is to back up down the "front" face of the jumps. She faces slightly toward the first jump and uses her arm away from the jump (nearest the dog) to direct the dog over the jump and starts backing up toward the second jump. Once the dog clears the first jump she uses her arm nearest the jump (nearest the dog) to draw the dog between the jumps. Then repeat to send the dog over the second jump.

Unfortunately the photos that accompany the article never actually show her using her off side arm being used to direct her dog over the jump. They only show her using her inside arm to cue the second jump (what I'd consider a Jump Wrap) and to draw her dog to her. One photo shows her starting to switch from right to left arm but you don't see the critical turn and direct with her left arm.

I would summarize the philosophy of her approach as: "since my dog knows he shouldn't go behind me (her "no-go zone") if I present my no-go zone when he clears the first jump he knows not to take the second jump from the back side (which would make the sequence a 180) so he knows to come to my front (into her "reinforcement zone")". Then she turns her reinforcement zone slightly toward the second jump and sends the dog over the jump with her (now) near side arm. By consistently presenting her reinforcement zone to her dog through the Threadle her dog can see the correct path through the obstacles.

This differs from Linda Mecklenburg's approach of handling the sequence by moving backwards and using only the arm nearest the dog (not rotating her shoulders toward the second jump and changing arms as Mary Ellen does) (see SingleSidedThreadleHandling). I have been using Linda's approach for about a year now, since Rachel Sanders first presented that approach at Dana Pike's Fall 2006 Camp, and I'm pretty comfortable with it. I wonder if the extra slight turn and arm change toward the jump that Mary Ellen uses at the send over the jump complicates the handling? I'd be afraid I might pause for the arm change and with a widely spaced Threadle it might be harder to get to the next jump. I like that I can just use my inside arm through the whole sequence without the arm switch. But that's just me.

Interestingly, Mary Ellen states:

"In addition, when I am performing successive threadles, I cue the jump differently so the dog knows another threadle is coming."

I was surprised to read that. To me the cue for the start of the second Threadle should be the same as for the first jump in the sequence. You pull your dog through the gap, turn slightly to the jump and then just give the cue for the jump with near side arm again. I'll have to ask Mary Ellen about that when I see her at Dana Pike's Fall Camp in October.

Another great thing about this article is Mary Ellen's ability to relate Linda's "plane of her body" concept to Greg's "Blind Cross Body Line" concept. This is just what I love so much about Mary Ellen; she critically analyzes other handling and training approaches and can compare, contrast, and synthesize her own system from those with whom she trains and studies. That's why she is one of my favorite trainers.

Linda Mecklenburg has developed a handling system that provides her dogs with a consistent set of cues for negotiating courses at the highest levels of competition. While I train with top caliber handlers and trainers who regularly work with Linda I haven't yet trained with her myself. So it would be presumptuous for me to try to present her system. What I can do is show how we can "extract" the results of applying her system to Threadle handling and benefit from her insights. I've found handling Threadles in this way gives a faster, more flowing performance, uses consistent cues and, consequently, is clearer for the dog. It is also much easier for the handler to perform at speed and in tight situations.

I learned this technique from Rachel Sanders at Dana Pike's "2006 Fall Maintenance Camp". It was remarkable that the vast majority of dogs understood the handling on the first attempt and the handler's found it much easier to execute correctly than their normal handling. I subsequently taught her approach to over twenty intermediate handlers, all of whom "got it" immediately and used it running this course

Most importantly I'd like to express my gratitude to Linda Mecklenburg who not only replied immediately to my email questions, she drew Clean Run Course Designer diagrams detailing her how her handling applies to Threadles, and graciously proofread this article. Thank you Linda!

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There are three "traditional" methods for handling Threadles. Two of which have the handler perform crosses and the third uses only pushing and pulling. This article presents descriptions, diagrams and video for each approach.

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I am very much still training Meeker for the agility game. I've noticed times when I use handling with him that he doesn't fully understand or "push the envelope" on distance or obstacle approach angles without as much training as I should have before testing him. I had a scary training moment remind me of the importance of being aware of my dog's abilities and of being in the moment when running a course.

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A few weeks ago Dana Pike setup a course with a 15 foot straight tunnel followed by a 180 degree turn into the weaves. As handlers, we were concerned that we wouldn't be in position to assist the dog with the turn to the weaves. Here's a pretend course that illustrates the problem:

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As I've mentioned before, Clean Run Magazine is one of the best sources for up to date Agility information. The May 2005 issues is a special "Handling Issue" and is packed with useful information.

Here are some highlights:

• The "Sallie Sports Vet" (Dr. Christine Zink) article has a good sequence of pictures showing what happens when a dog lands on the wrong Lead Leg after a jump. If you are interested in Lead Leg you might also be interested in this short video I created demonstrating Milo changing his Lead Leg.

• Linda Mecklenburg's tour de force article called "Achieving a Balance" was a quite "technical" read (at least for Clean Run). She thoroughly covered all the aspects of a Handler's communication with their dog when running a course. She provides what I'd call a "grammar" for the body cues (motion, physical cues, and position) and verbal cues we use to communicate with our canine teammates. I don't know that the article really discussed the "balance" mentioned in the title, but Linda provides numerous good examples of how these cues can be used and combined in various circumstances. This is a must read article for any handler. I'll have to read this a couple more times to get the most out of it.
• "Ask the Experts" discusses pre-cueing FrontCrosses [FrontCross, LearningFrontCross]. It has some good photo sequences of handlers crossing too early, too late, and not on the Handler Line [UsingHandlerLine, HandlerLine]. Although they don't use the Handler Line terminology...
• Tracy Sklenar has a discussion of using the "False Turn" Reverse Flow Pivot on course and a second pictorial article about using the outside arm as a cue for coming in to the handler for the RFP. I'm not sure I'm entirely sold on using only the outside arm across the chest for this purpose. I've used both the the outside arm across the chest and a reach back with a shoulder dip of the inside arm to bring my dogs in to me on the Serpentine [Serpentine, SerpentineHandling]. I think a point missing in these discussions is that this cue is equivalent to performing a Front Cross over the jump (on the landing side of the jump) so the arm motions are those you'd use if you were performing the Front Cross. I think I'll do a future article exploring this - I'm not sure these are different concepts.
• Susan Garrett provides a good and thorough description of how to perform Front Crosses and what the handler has to consider. Again I'd have liked to see discussion of where to place the cross relative to the two jumps. For me, learning a guideline about where to locate the cross was very helpful.
• Deborah Jones wrote a good article called "The Controversial Blind Cross". I've wanted to write an article called "Are Blind Crosses Really Evil?" ever since I started this website... Read this article and I'll leave you to make your own decision.
• Jane Simmons-Moake wrote two articles about Rear Crosses (one about layering Rear Crosses). I think she left out the point that sometimes a Rear Cross is used by the handler to change sides on the dog and other times it is used to aid in turning (or changing leads and turning) the dog (and possibly also for the handler to change sides). To me an important part of executing the Rear Cross is using the inside arm to draw the dog past the handler. This motion also helps indicate to the dog what direction they should be moving and helps remove the possibility of spinning the dog after the Rear Cross... yet another website article possibility.
• There are a really good set of pictorial explanations of many of Agility cross maneuvers by Nancy Gyes. This is a well presented article with great photo sequences.

There are even more articles I haven't outlined. You've got to borrow or buy this issue. If you don't yet have a subscription to Clean Run get one now. Maybe you can ask if they can start your subscription with this really good Handling Issue.

The 270 Degree Jump Sequence is a commonly seen advanced Agility course element. Fortunately, handling the "270" is very similar to handling a Pin Wheel. So once your team has mastered handling a Pin Wheel you can easily move on to handling a "270".

Depending on how the 270 is sequenced in the course and the dog's approach and exit angles there are different ways to handle this two jump sequence. I'll present five different handling approaches you might consider: Post Turn, Take-off Side Front Cross, Landing Side Front Cross, Blind Cross, and Rear Cross.

Example 270 Degree Jump Sequence

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As I was writing up my V-Set Definition I thought it might be worthwhile to discuss some alternatives to using the V-Set. The primary argument against the V-Set is that it trades time and distance for accuracy. Using the V-Set makes for a slightly longer and possibly slower path for the dog. Worthwhile alternate strategies should allow the dog to make the best possible time over the course. I'll try to point out some of the risks of each alternative, but every handling option for every sequence has some risk, ultimately it is a matter of knowing you and your teammate's abilities.

In general these alternatives require a more practiced team, or at least a dog with more Handler Focus than Obstacle Focus. That is because success on a course that might be considered for use of a V-Set requires the handler to be able to turn the dog to avoid an off course obstacle. I'll reuse the same course opening, reproduced below, with the off course jump indicated by an "X".

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